Letters from the club

May 2026

May 2026 · Northern Italy

Northern Italy Treasures

Discovering ancient varietals

May’s WineClub is inspired by the elegance, warmth, and nurturing spirit of mothers, featuring two refined Northern Italian wines chosen for their grace, softness, and beautifully welcoming character at the table.

When many people think of Northern Italy, they immediately think of the power and prestige of Barolo — bold, structured wines built for aging and celebration. But this month, I wanted to explore another side of Northern Italy with you. A softer side. A more graceful and quietly expressive side.

For May’s WineClub, I was drawn toward two lesser-known native varietals that beautifully reflect the elegance and warmth of the season. Rather than leaning into intensity and structure, I chose wines that feel welcoming, refined, and deeply connected to the culture and traditions from which they come — much like the spirit of an Italian mother’s table.

Our Arneis from Piemonte offers freshness, delicate floral aromatics, and vibrant orchard fruit, while the Marzemino from Lombardia brings soft red fruit, gentle herbal notes, and a silky, elegant texture. These are wines that invite you in slowly, revealing a sense of place, history, and authenticity with every glass.

One of the things I love most about Italy is that it is home to more native grape varietals than almost anywhere else in the world, with well over 500 officially recognized indigenous grapes grown throughout the country’s diverse regions. Beyond the internationally famous wines lies an incredible world of regional traditions, local expressions, and hidden gems waiting to be discovered.

This month is an invitation to step beyond the familiar and explore that world together — one glass at a time.

This month’s wine selections

Paolo Conterno Arneis & Borgo dell’Ora Marzemino

Two distinctive Northern Italian wines that bring elegance, freshness, and a strong sense of place to the table, each offering a unique expression of Italy’s rich culture and native varietals.

White · Roero, Piemonte

Paolo Conterno Arneis

Paolo Conterno is a family-owned winery in Piemonte with deep roots in the Langhe hills, a region internationally celebrated for some of Italy’s most iconic wines. While the area is best known for powerful Nebbiolo-based wines such as Barolo, the estate also highlights the beauty of Piemonte’s native white varietals through a thoughtful and terroir-driven approach to winemaking.

Their Arneis is grown in the rolling hills of Roero, where sandy soils and cooling alpine influences help preserve freshness and aromatic precision. Often referred to as one of Piemonte’s most important indigenous white grapes, Arneis offers delicate floral aromatics, orchard fruit, citrus, and subtle almond notes, creating a wine that is vibrant, elegant, and beautifully food friendly.

Food pairing

Its freshness and texture make it especially well suited to seafood, grilled shrimp, creamy risottos, roast chicken, fresh salads, and pasta dishes finished with olive oil, lemon, or fresh herbs.

Red · Lombardia

Borgo dell’Ora Marzemino

Peri Bigogno is a family-run winery in Lombardia with a winemaking history dating back to 1946, located between the city of Brescia and nearby Lake Garda. The family has long focused on preserving the traditions and native varietals of their region while producing wines that reflect both place and balance.

Their Borgo dell’Ora Marzemino is made from 100% Marzemino, a lesser-known indigenous red grape variety known for its soft texture, bright red berry fruit, and gentle herbal character. Influenced by the moderating effects of nearby lakes and the cooler climate of Northern Italy, the wine maintains freshness and elegance while offering a silky, approachable profile that feels effortlessly welcoming at the table.

Interestingly, DNA profiling has shown Marzemino to have a parent-offspring relationship with Refosco, another important Northern Italian varietal, further highlighting the deep viticultural history of the region. Lightly chilling this wine to approximately 14–16°C helps emphasize its freshness and vibrant red fruit character.

Food pairing

Especially enjoyable alongside charcuterie, mushroom dishes, roasted poultry, herb-driven Italian cuisine, and softer cheeses.

An evening at Devlin’s · May 20th

Wine, Cheese & Conversation

As always, WineClub members receive the first invitation to our upcoming events, and on May 20th we will be hosting an evening of wine, cheese, and conversation at Devlin’s.

Together, we’ll explore one of the wine world’s most loved pairings while discovering why certain wines and cheeses work so beautifully together. Throughout the evening, we’ll taste through a variety of sparkling, white, and red wines alongside carefully selected cheeses, learning which combinations create balance, contrast, and harmony on the palate.

We’ll discuss some of the foundational principles behind successful wine and cheese pairing, including how acidity can cut through richness, how salt in cheese can soften tannins in red wine, and why texture often matters just as much as flavour intensity. We’ll also explore some of the world’s most celebrated pairings and uncover a few unexpected combinations along the way.

If you love wine — which I know you do — and cheese is one of life’s simple pleasures, this is an evening designed for you.

Salute!